“I CAN SEE THE SEA, I CAN SEE THE SEA, I CAN SEE THE SEA” we chant, clapping our hands in unison from the back seat. We’re driving down Bulli Pass, the thin strip of blue visible on the left-hand side of the car. We’re fighting over Fruit Tingles and blackcurrant Lifesavers. Fighting over whose side of the car is better. Over who is breathing whose air.